HERE’S A thing. Chaotic middle England provincial family has to depend upon solitary bedrock for survival. Could it be the ditzy housewife? Could it be, whisper it, WENDY CRAIG? Here’s where it all began (AND MOTHER MAKES…, BUTTERFLIES, LAURA… etc. bloody etc.). PAUL “GBH” DANEMAN and ROBERTA “DR WHO FILM SUSAN” TOVEY grimaced at the bolognaise.