Ali, with his thin smile and gleeful clasping hands really won me over by the end of The Restaurant, but alas, in last night’s final Raymond went into ‘biz-ness’ with The Cheerful Soul. And, inevitably, here’s their blog!

Cheerful, aren't they?

I’ve nothing against Michele and Russell, other than the way they seem to feel their relationship and lifestyle represents something of a gold standard the rest of us should aspire to.

But if The Gallery opened next door to them, I’d be popping in there for petit fours and a disposable camera rather than a big hug and “old food made interesting”.

"It's about the moan-eh"

Judging by various comments and quotes I’ve seen firing across the internet in the last week or so, BBC2′s reality series is currently running at that pleasing level which sits just below Alison Graham style in-jokery, but is sufficiently embedded in our collective viewing habits that most people reading this will understand to what the heading of this post refers.

Right now, The Restaurant is like The Apprentice minus the publicity overkill. As of yet, Raymond Blanc and his inspectors are yet to become subject to a “siralan” style shared comedy shorthand term of reference, and the programe is all the better for it.

So: “Are you going to leave a tip for girls?”

Mind you, I thought new Dragon James Caan was a smooth operator, but all in all is this yet another series that has outlived its shelf life? 

Oh, and while I’m here, the result of The Restaurant was a travesty.

Tonight’s edition featured more blame-shifting and work-avoidance from the jazz drummer. “High pressure cooking doesn’t suit Sam,” explained voiceover man, “and instead of taking charge he’s left it to Jacqui”. It was to the programme’s credit then, that it was actually a surprise at the end of the episode when the duo who were given the boot. All through the episode Martin and Emma had been labouring under the affliction that most commonly affects Apprentice contestants; namely, being the ones with the most relevant previous experience for that week’s task. For most of the programme, the smart money was on them to pack up their coq au vin and go when the show ended.

With marketing and elbow grease added to the equation this week, The Restaurant moved ever closer to The Apprentice. The first episode suggested the series would simply follow the progress of the nine couples as they tried to make their way in the restaurant business, but it has now become clear this is to be a task-based elimination programme after all. Like Sugar’s show, The Restaurant compromises relevance for the sake of variation, and the catering task, although entertaining, seemed a distraction from the business of actually running a high class eatery.

Still the Thursday elimination programmes are an excellent innovation. These secondary task shows allow the series to have its cake and eat it. Wednesdays feature the couples toiling away in isolation, while the politicking and group dynamism all takes place the following evening. It’s a satisfying arrangement, and one that also allows the BBC to commission twice as many episodes.

Two weeks in and its all unfolding as it should – perhaps a little too much so, in fact. Three years ago this would have been unmissable telly, as compellingly watchable as, say, The Million Pound Property Experiment, but watching The Restaurant today, there is a slight weariness in the eviction format that undermines some of the programme’s effervescence. But it is superbly made, and is the kind of series you can confidently predict will still be worth watching in a few weeks. Any show that makes you feel able to commit for the long haul after just four episodes has to be pretty good.

Over on ITV1, Hell’s Kitchen is spluttering, although slightly improving thanks to Lee Ryan’s walkout (the kind of incident that doesn’t require creative editing to turn it into an interesting story). Meanwhile the ill-fated Tycoon is still recent enough in the memory to remind us that this kind of programming can go wrong, despite the security of a seemingly flameproof format. Viewed in that context The Restaurant is an assured, albeit somewhat predictable success. Although, let’s just hope that by week six the would-be restaurateurs aren’t challenged to carry out a cooking demonstration on QVC …

“If anyone is looking for the chance to own their own restaurant for a day and show off their signature dish then this could be the opportunity. BBC1 is filming a new series this summer called Making A Meal Of It. They are looking for 10 pairs of amateur cooks to have a go at running a restaurant as head chef and front-of-house manager. The BBC will provide the restaurant, the staff and the diners. This is ideal for anyone who has dreamt of running there own restaurant, but has never had the time or money to do so. The restaurant will be yours to cook whatever you want, whether it be a ultra-modern sushi bar or a cheery organic café, nothing could be too wild.”

“But it will be important to impress as the diners will be judging the value of each meal on taste, presentation, service and overall dining experience. Each restaurateur will be up against 4 other contestants and the couple that turns over the highest profit wins the total earnings. This could be a life changing opportunity and you could find out if you really have what it takes to run a restaurant. If you think this is the opportunity and challenge you are up to, then email the team at makingamealofit@bbc.co.uk”

The formats seem incredibly similar, don’t they? There are a couple of differences. The suggestion here is that the restaurant will be a closed environment, they’ll only have it for a day and that the contestants won’t be actually running a business – which is the point of The Restaurant. Any thoughts?

“BBC2′s The Restaurant, which will air in 2007, features nine couples whose dream is to run their own restaurant. The task is to create their perfect restaurant and then open the doors to the paying public. Every decision, mistake and argument will be filmed as they work and live together 24-hours-a-day, under severe pressure.

Each week, one restaurant is eliminated from the competition by Raymond Blanc, who acts as judge. At the end of the run, the winners get to run their own restaurant, backed by Blanc to the tune of a six-figure sum.”

So that’s Big Brother marinated in The Apprentice then stir fried with MasterChef Goes Large sprinkled liberally with Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares potentially adding just a dash of mixed property programmes. It sounds exciting but what happens to the Restaurants that are opened to the public then voted off? Do they stay open?